NOTE: The following article is meant to inform you to assist in safe and healthy choices for your skincare. Please consult a doctor with major skin concerns or for medical treatments. Links posted are affiliate links of genuinely reviewed products.
Whether you spent your early adult years as a sun worshipper or not, you have likely experienced mild to major hyperpigmentation on your skin at some point in the form of freckles, sun spots, melasma or even acne scarring.
What causes hyperpigmentation?
Sun exposure is the most obvious cause of dark (or brown) spots on the skin, but hormones and inflammation play a role in darker spots or patches of pigmentation as well. UV rays and hormone fluctuations can stimulate melanocytes beneath the skin which produce excess melanin, resulting in pigment deposits on the surface of the skin appearing as darker spots. Pregnant women are demonstrative of the effects of hormones on melanocytes, as many women experience melasma (darker patches of skin) during pregnancy due to hormone surges and fluctuations. Skin can become stressed or inflamed from environmental pollutants which can weaken its protective surface making it more susceptible to sun damage.
At-home treatments
1) Exfoliate
Exfoliation is essential to healthy skin for removing the barrier of dead skin cells clogging the skin and uncovering fresh new cells below. An ideal skincare regimen includes cleansing morning and night with dedicated exfoliation one to three times a week. Do not over-exfoliate as this can have the opposite effect on skin, causing dryness, irritation and breakouts.
There are two types of exfoliation to choose from:
Chemical exfoliants use acids or enzymes to dissolve and loosen dead cells to make them slough off. Peels or masks are formulated with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) to exfoliate skin at a deeper level. Often used to treat skin concerns such as hyperpigmentation, acne, uneven skin tone and to diminish the appearance of pores, fine lines and wrinkles. If you have sensitive skin, choose a gentler chemical exfoliant with fruit derived acids.
Two of our favourites formulated with botanical acids and safe ingredients:
Physical exfoliants—products containing small particles or any sort of textured surface, like a washcloth—work by scrubbing away the dead skin and debris. They give you the instant gratification of a freshly scrubbed face, but exfoliate only at a surface level.
The two best cleansing exfoliators with natural jojoba beads:
Countercontrol Clear Pore Cleanser
Counterman Daily Exfoliating Cleanser
For an at-home dermatologist-like physical exfoliating treatment, you may prefer microderm abrasion. Look for diamond tip, not crystal or sand blasting which can cause further inflammation and infection. This one comes highly recommended.
2) Treat with antioxidants
Antioxidants are molecules that fight free radicals– unstable molecules that can damage cells — in your body and combat oxidative stress caused by excess free radicals. In terms of skin benefits, antioxidants can help to prevent or slow damage skin cells due to sun exposure and environmental stress. Antioxidants help to reduce inflammation to allow skin to repair and correct visible damage. Some antioxidants may also stimulate collagen production which can help reduce the appearance of scarring, fine lines, and wrinkles.
Our favourite products with antioxidant defense properties are:
Countertime Collection formulated with Swiss Alpine Rose from Retinatural Complex boosts the skin’s antioxidant defense meaning that it protects against free-radical damage from UV Rays.
All Bright C Serum is a powerhouse treatment product containing 3 sought-after skincare antioxidants: firstly, Vitamin C, the most studied and most effective topical antioxidant in skincare; Turmeric Root Extract is an antioxidant superstar that helps even skin tone and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles; finally, Camu Camu Fruit Extract is a powerful antioxidant that helps to reduce the appearance of dark spots while brightening to visually improve signs of skin fatigue.
3) Protect
There are three important ways to protect your skin from further cell damage and resulting hyperpigmentation:
A) Collagen-stimulating ingredients
Collagen keeps the skin soft, supple and strong, and helps skin cells to renew and repair themselves.
Ingredients that stimulate collagen production or help to maintain it, and our favourite safe skincare treatments:
- Hyaluronic Acid
Countermatch Intense Moisture Serum
Countertime Tripeptide Radiance Serum
Dew Skin
Overnight Resurfacing Peel
Charcoal Facial Mask
2. Vitamin C
All Bright C Serum
3. Aloe
After Sun Cooling Gel
4. Ginseng (anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidative)
5. Antioxidants
Countertime Collection
All Bright C Serum
6. Retinol – used in many conventional treatments though not in clean, safe skincare due to high risk of skin irritation and altering skin cells to be more susceptible to sun damage.
B) Moisturise your skin
After cleansing then applying a treatment or serum, always apply a good quality moisturizer to help restore the lipid (fat) barrier of the skin, which helps to protect it from further damage.
Our favourites are:
Countertime Antioxidant Soft Cream
Countertime Tetrapeptide Supreme Cream
Countermatch Adaptive Moisture Lotion
Countermatch Recovery Sleeping Cream
C) Wear sunscreen
There are two types of sunscreen to choose from, but only one that is truly recommended for your health and by the FDA.
Chemical sunscreens (not this one) are often formulated with oxybenzone, octinoxate or avobenzone – all chemicals that the FDA studied and found to enter the blood stream, and to damage coral reefs. These chemicals absorb the sun’s rays into your skin, and return them back to the atmosphere as heat. For this reason, chemical sunscreens may worsen the appearance of sun spots and melasma.
Mineral sunscreens (this is the one you want) are made with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide which physically block the sun’s UV rays. Choose a broad-spectrum to protect against UVA (aging) and UVB (burning) rays.
Does the factor matter?
Not really. Choose Sun Protection Factor (SPF) 15 to 50. The difference between SPF 30 and 50 is only 1% protection against UVB rays.
What matters the most?
Application and re-application. In theory, one of application of sunscreen should use 1oz. of product, applied 15 minutes before sun exposure and every 90 minutes thereafter. No matter which factor your choose, SPF is only effective for 90 minute duration.
The best sun protection products that do NOT leave chalky, white residue are:
Countersun SPF 30 Lotion
Countersun SPF30 Mist
Countersun SPF30 Stick
Countersun SPF 30 Tinted Mists
Dew Skin tinted SPF20
Note on Medical Treatments
If melasma or hyperpigmentation of your skin is a major concern, your doctor may prescribe medical or topical treatments such as retinols or hydroquinone. Although these may help to speed up the lightening of your dark spots or patches, they may also have some associated health risks. Do your research, and weigh the risks versus rewards before making your decision for treatment.
References
https://www.health.harvard.edu/womens-health/unmasking-the-causes-and-treatments-of-melasma
https://mavendoctors.io/women/skin-beauty/the-importance-of-exfoliation-8WdqitUFP0uO9GWwIOf-Kw
https://www.dermstore.com/blog/top_ten/antioxidants-in-skin-care/